Monday, April 4, 2011

Simplicity 2211: Muslin Take 2!

Well, thanks to some great advice from the commenters on this blog and to my posts at PatternReview and SewLisette I think I'm making progress.  I narrowed the shoulder by 1/2 an inch.  I took up an inch in length above the waist. 

Why hello sway back - I didn't even know you were there until today! I think the fit on this is pretty good at this point but I'm going to take commenter Carol's advice and release the side seams at the bottom and let the back hang.  I think I just need some width in the back along the hem to get the shirt to lay nicely. 
I've also got an old sheet all picked out with which to muslin this shirt again.  This time I'll try the size 12 with an FBA.  (My high bust is a 34 and my full bust is a 38.) Then and ONLY THEN, dear readers, will I know for sure which size is better for me, the 12 or the 14.  ;) 


  1. I can already see improvement in this muslin, Liz. :) I think going down a size will be good and then comparing will be a great lesson in the fitting department. With this muslin you have on now, I want to go and pinch up the shoulder seam, bringing the fabric up a bit. When you do that, then you have to deepen the armcye.

    I would definitely open up the side seam from hem to waist and see how that trues up the side seam. I can see the pulling to the back still in this photo, suggesting that the first set of pictures this was an issue, not just your hand on the fabric. ;)

    I did not mention this yesterday as it's just too hard for me to tell in these pictures, but Liz, it's possible you have a high hip curve or high buttocks contour, which is why the fabric is pulling towards the back. The fitting book I mentioned yesterday gives great illustrations in the book to show what this is. This is how it is described in the book:

    "The distance from the crown of the buttock to the waist is shorter than average".

    This is also one of the reasons you get that extra fabric in the small of the back.

    Enjoy the process, Liz, it truly is rewarding in the end. :)


  2. Thanks again Carol! You are great at seeing these issues. I think you are right about taking up the shoulder seam and deepening the armsyth. That would probably get the dart in a better position and also lessen some of the creases I see going from my shoulders to my sides? I did let out the side seam from the waist to the hem and it makes a bid difference - I'll edit this post to show that picture tonight. Last night I was busy tracing off the size 12 pattern pieces and doing the FBA. Tonight I'm hoping to cut it out and sew it up for comparison purposes. To some it might seem like alot of work for just a simple blouse but I really want to get the best fit possible and I am enjoying the process! Just taking my time, learning as I go, with no presure to hurry through it. It is so facinating to me how just a small alteration can make a huge difference in the way a garment fits. I am going to request the book you recommended at my library. I have FFRP also.
    - Liz

  3. IT's a bit fiddly trying to get that perfect fit, isn't it? Have you started on your second muslin? How is that working? I did a 12 muslin today w/ the facings and the gaping issues were much less but the side seams were a little too snug for my liking. I got to work on it at my mom's so I had her expert help and have decided to do the 12 with 1/4" added to the side seam allowances. I cut into the 'good' fabric so I hope the changes work!

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  5. Thanks for checking in - I just published the post with pictures of my size 12 muslin. I think I'm ready for my fashion fabric. Glad to hear that you are having some luck with your muslin also. Will you post pictures of the finished garment on the Lisette flickr site or somewhere else? I don't want to miss it.
    - Liz