Simplicity 2211: Muslin of the Lisette Market Blouse
For a while I've been searching for a simple, black, short sleeved blouse to wear this spring and summer. Something that I could dress up for work or dress down for the weekends. Something to replace just a regular crew neck t-shirt. Should be no problem right, that's only the holy grail of tops! I decided to give it a try with some black cotton lawn and view E of Simplicity 2211 from the Lisette line designed by Liesl Gibson of Oliver + S fame.
I studied the back of the pattern envelope for a long time trying to decide what size to cut. Then after I finished studying the envelope I studied the pattern tissue a while longer. As most home sewists are aware, Simplicity patterns have quite a bit of ease in them. Usually there is about 5 1/2" of ease in the bust and this pattern is no different.
I wanted my shirt to be fitted but not so fitted that I couldn't load groceries, push a stroller or sit on the floor at story hour without popping a seam. I usually make alterations to the pattern tissue right away - I do a 1" FBA for most garments and I always take out an inch of length at the waist. But I've changed shape quite a bit in the last month since I stopped nursing my daughter so I wasn't sure which alterations I would need. Also, Simplicity didn't include a finished length or waist measurement for the blouse so even though I measured the flat pattern I just wasn't 100% sure what to expect. I decided that the safest bet would be to just cut a straight 14 and make a muslin without any pattern alterations. Here it is:
The fit through the bust has the amount of ease that I was looking for however the darts are a little too low. The rest of the shirt kind of looks like a sack on me. It looks boxy from the front and bags around the lower back. The waist is too low (surprise, surprise!). The arm hole fits but the shoulder looks slouchy. I think the slouchy shoulder is from the neckline pulling over to one side. I feel that if I had 2 sleeves on and the neckline facing piece this might be corrected. Overall, I think this muslin needs the following:
1. An inch in length taken out above the waist
2. A 1/2 inch in length taken out above the bust line (then I'd need to correct the armsyth to account for the length alteration above the bust)
3. The side seams to be taken in, about 1/2 inch at the hem and tapering to nothing at the dart.
4. Maybe, the shoulder narrowed by 1/4 to a 1/2 inch to correct for the slouchy factor.
That is alot of alterations! I think maybe I should start again and muslin a size 12 with a full bust alteration instead. But I can't decide!!! Should I start tinkering with this muslin or try again with a size 12? Is there something I'm missing that might get me a better fit? What do you think?